Nigel Seah has extensive experience travelling through Taiwan and shares his adventures and insider tips with us below.
Alishan is one of those Taiwan trips that looks effortless in photos and gets a lot smoother with the right plan, so this fuss-free 3D2N itinerary is designed to keep you relaxed and on track.
We’ll start with the basics, like what “Alishan” actually refers to and the easiest ways to get there from Taipei and Chiayi, then move into a simple day-by-day route that covers Fenqihu Old Street, misty forest trails, the Alishan Forest Railway, and sunrise at Zhushan.
I’ll also share what to pack and how to handle foggy days, plus why a Taiwan eSIM or Asia eSIM can be a low-key lifesaver when you need maps, schedules, and last-minute pivots, actually to load.
In this article:
- A brief introduction to Alishan
- How to get to Alishan?
- What does the term “Alishan” refer to?
- Things to note before you go (the stuff that saves your trip)
- What to pack for your Alishan trip?
- The fuss-free 3D2N Alishan itinerary
- Checklist: Top things to do in Alishan
- Your Alishan Win, Without the Overplanning
- Frequently Asked Questions about Alishan
A brief introduction to Alishan
What is Alishan known for?
If you’ve ever seen a photo of Taiwan that looks like it was taken inside a watercolor painting, it was probably Alishan.
The sea of clouds
It’s best known for cool, misty forests filled with old-growth cypress and cedar, like Taiwan’s hinoki cypress (檜木), plus sunrise viewpoints where the sea of clouds (雲海) sometimes shows up and casually steals the whole show.
On clear mornings, you can even catch distant mountain silhouettes like Yushan (玉山), which feels a bit unreal when you realize you’re still very much on planet Earth.
And then there’s the Alishan Forest Railway (阿里山森林鐵路), a scenic ride that turns “getting around” into part of the experience.
As a digital nomad, Alishan won my heart because the main attractions are timeless and easy to understand: wake up early once, walk through legendary forests, and let the mountain do its thing.
Indigenous origins of Alishan
Long before Alishan became a headline act for sunrise photos, it was part of the traditional homelands and hunting grounds of the Tsou people (鄒族), who are still very present in the region today.
That context changes how you experience the place, because you’re not just visiting a “scenic area,” you’re stepping into a landscape with deep cultural roots, stories, and place-based identity that existed well before modern tourism.
You’ll see Indigenous references in the wider area. In fact, you can book a tour via KKday, a Taiwanese travel app, to learn more about their culture and history.
Where is Alishan located in Taiwan?
Alishan is in Chiayi County (嘉義縣) in central-southern Taiwan, up in the mountains, where the air runs cooler, and the weather can shift quickly.
The drive and transit routes typically follow the Alishan Highway (阿里山公路), climbing to elevations around 2,000 meters and above, which explains the misty forest vibe and those dramatic temperature drops compared to the cities.
How to get to Alishan?
How to get to Alishan from Taipei?
When I’m trying to keep an Alishan trip genuinely fuss-free, I treat Chiayi as the “base camp” and work from there.
I went from Tainan to Chiayi
The smoothest move is taking the Taiwan High Speed Rail (HSR, 高鐵) south from Taipei to Chiayi HSR Station (高鐵嘉義站) just because it’s fast and frequent.
If you’d rather go cheaper, intercity buses also run from Taipei Bus Station (台北轉運站), which is right next to Taipei Main Station (台北車站). Common routes include UBus (統聯客運) 1618 and Kuo-Kuang (國光客運) 1834 to Chiayi.
And if you’re feeling brave and want a single long ride, Kuo-Kuang 1835 goes from Taipei to Alishan via Chiayi.
How to get to Alishan from Chiayi?
Once you’re in Chiayi, you’ve got two realistic “no drama” options: train vibes or bus convenience.
If you can snag it, the Alishan Forest Railway (阿里山森林鐵路) from Chiayi Railway Station (TRA, 台鐵) is the iconic choice, and it feels like the journey is part of the itinerary instead of a commute.
When I was trying to get tickets, the direct seats to Alishan were already sold out, so I took the train to Fenqihu (奮起湖) instead and treated it as a bonus stop.
If you’d rather prioritize flexibility, buses are straightforward too:
- From Chiayi Railway Station, you’re typically looking at bus 7322 (to Alishan) or 7322A (via Fenqihu)
- From Chiayi HSR Station, you’ll usually see 7329 (to Alishan) or 7329A (via Fenqihu)
How to get tickets for the Alishan Forest Railway
If you want the train, book online on the official site and set an alarm.
The release time is painfully precise: tickets usually drop at 6:00 AM Taiwan time, around 14 days ahead for weekdays, 15 for Saturdays, and 16 for Sundays.
Even then, there’s no guarantee, because seats are limited and they can vanish in seconds, especially on weekends and in peak season.
My tip is to try right at release, then keep checking closer to your date, since canceled tickets sometimes pop back up.
If card payment doesn’t work, you can usually pay at 7-Eleven via an iBon kiosk within the payment window, then pick up your physical tickets at Chiayi Railway Station before boarding.
Either way, arrive early, bring the passport you booked with, and don’t cut it close unless you enjoy pre-coffee sprints.
What does the term “Alishan” refer to?
“Alishan” can refer to different things depending on context:
General mountain region
When travelers say they’re “going to Alishan,” they’re often referring to the entire highland region in Chiayi County, not a pinpoint on Google Maps.
Alishan National Scenic Area
Alishan National Scenic Area (阿里山國家風景區) is the broader tourism region, the big umbrella that covers the classic Alishan experience, along with surrounding attractions and villages.
You’ll literally pass through an entrance gate and pay an entrance fee when you head into the core sightseeing zone, which is a pretty strong hint that you’re entering a managed area rather than just “a mountain.”
Treat the scenic area as your overall destination, then get specific about where inside it you want to spend most of your time.
Alishan National Forest Recreation Area
Alishan National Forest Recreation Area (阿里山國家森林遊樂區) is the “main event” for most first-timers, because this is where the famous easy trails, giant trees, and sunrise logistics are concentrated.
I strongly recommend booking accommodation in this area, as it keeps your mornings calm and your evenings simple.
Alishan Township
Learn from my mistake: I initially booked a place listed as within Alishan Township, only to realize it was in the broader area and about a 40-minute ride from the core sights, which isn't the vibe when you’re trying to catch a pre-dawn train.
Alishan Township (阿里山鄉) is an administrative area in Chiayi County, and it’s bigger than most people expect.
This is where travelers get tripped up: an address that says “Alishan Township” doesn’t automatically mean you’re staying inside the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area.
If you want your itinerary to feel truly fuss-free, double-check the exact distance to the forest recreation area entrance before you book, because a “close enough” location can quietly turn into a daily commute.
Things to note before you go (the stuff that saves your trip)
Weather, altitude, and what it feels like
Alishan sits high up in the mountains, so it feels noticeably cooler than the cities, and the air can be damp and bitey, especially around sunrise.
I always pack warm layers even if Taipei was feeling mild the day before, because early mornings up here don’t play nice.
Fog is also totally normal, and visibility can change fast, which is why I treat sunrise and sunset views as a bonus, not a guarantee.
Book accommodations in advance
If you want a stay that’s comfortable and close to the main sights, book earlier than you think you need to.
Alishan has a limited number of hotels, and most visitors stay only one or two nights, so the better rooms fill up quickly. In my experience, the remaining options can feel pricey for what you’re getting, simply because there isn’t much competition and demand is steady.
Most tours can be booked when you arrive
The good news is you don’t have to pre-book every single experience to have a great trip.
When I arrived, I swung by the Alishan Visitor’s Center (阿里山旅客服務中心) to grab updated info and see what’s available that day.
It’s also a place to ask about sunrise, stargazing, and other local experiences. It’s the easiest “talk to a human” safety net when weather shifts or your plan needs a quick pivot.
Some tours are seasonal
Some experiences only exist during the right season, so timing matters more than planning.
Firefly viewing around the Alishan region is usually best from April to June, with April and May often being peak, and Fenqihu is a popular base for it.
If you’re traveling in that window, I’d still check locally when you arrive, because exact activity and tour schedules can change depending on weather and community-led programs.
What to pack for your Alishan trip?
Airalo’s Taiwan or Asia eSIM
Airalo’s Taiwan and Asia eSIMs make Alishan feel way more fuss-free, because you stay connected even when you’re bouncing between Chiayi, Fenqihu, and sunrise viewpoints. No SIM-shop detours, no “why won’t my map load” drama.
- Fast setup: Activate in minutes, no store stops, no SIM swapping.
- Works where you need it most: Get coverage for navigation, transport checks, and last-minute plan changes in the mountains.
- More secure than public Wi-Fi: Skip random café networks and login pop-ups.
- Reliable internet for travel basics: Maps, messages, bookings, and uploads that don’t stall.
- Clear pricing: Choose a plan upfront, so you’re not dealing with surprise fees.
- Dual-SIM friendly: Keep your original number active while using data on the eSIM.
- Great for multi-country routes: Go Taiwan-only, or use the Asia option if Alishan is part of a bigger trip.
Warm clothes and outerwear
Pack like you’re visiting “cool, damp mountain air” rather than city Taiwan, because Alishan can feel surprisingly chilly, especially around sunrise.
I brought a jacket that I can put on and take off quickly, since the temperature can swing from brisk in the morning to comfortably mild once you’re walking around.
A light waterproof outer layer is clutch too, because mist and drizzle are common, and nothing kills the mood faster than being cold and slightly wet with three hours left in your day.
Hiking and trekking footwear
You don’t need hardcore mountaineering boots for Alishan, but you do want shoes you trust on damp paths and uneven ground.
A grippy sole matters more than style here, because the forest trails can be slick after rain, and even “easy” walks can involve steps, roots, and short inclines.
I brought a comfortable pair of Decathlon hiking boots I can wear all day, since the whole point of a fuss-free itinerary is not thinking about your feet every ten minutes.
Phone battery plan (portable charger, offline maps)
Alishan days have a funny way of draining your battery: cold weather, lots of photos, and constant map-checking when you’re moving between viewpoints.
I preload offline map areas before heading up, then keep a portable charger in my day bag, so I’m not doing mental math on percentages while trying to enjoy the scenery.
If you’re relying on early transport for sunrise, this matters even more because a dead phone at 4:30 AM is the kind of chaos nobody needs.
The fuss-free 3D2N Alishan itinerary
Day 0 (optional but highly recommended): Arrive in Chiayi and sleep early
I treat Day 0 like my “future self will thank me” investment: I took the high-speed rail down from Taipei to Chiayi, ate something quick and familiar, and stocked up on the basics (water, snacks, and a warm layer), so I wouldn’t be scrambling early next morning.
Once you’re in a mountain itinerary, small prep turns into immense calm, and going to bed early is basically a travel cheat code.
Day 1: Fenqihu stop
I kicked things off by riding the Alishan Forest Railway and hopping off at Fenqihu Old Street (奮起湖老街), then dropped my stuff at my stay (I booked Deep Forest Inn) before properly exploring.
Lunch was the classic bento at Fenqihu Hotel (奮起湖大飯店), followed by a slow snack crawl and a short walk on the Fengqi Trail, which felt like the perfect warm-up for the bigger Alishan days ahead.
By evening, I was already in that “mountain time” mindset, so I called it early and loosely mapped out the next two days.
Day 2: Fenqihu to Alishan
After a complimentary breakfast at the inn, I took bus 7329 up to the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area and left my stuff at the hotel concierge.
After that, I immediately headed to the tourist center to lock in the two things that matter most: the stargazing tour for the night and the forest railway plan to Zhushan (祝山) for sunrise the next morning.
I kept lunch simple at a food stall, then spent the afternoon doing an easy loop around Sisters Ponds Trail (姊妹潭步道), which is precisely as moody and misty as you’d hope.
Dinner was low-key, and the night ended with a stargazing tour during which the guide also shared brief notes on the plants and wildlife around Zhushan.
I hadn’t seen stars in almost two decades by that point, and it was absolutely amazing to be able to see them again.
Day 3: Sunrise, viewpoints, and a calm exit
Sunrise day was the early start, but it was worth it: I took the forest railway up to Zhushan with a friend to catch the sea of clouds if it decided to show up, then eased into the rest of the morning instead of cramming in one last mega-hike.
After lunch, I headed back to Chiayi on the Alishan Forest Express because it had the earliest departure that suited my schedule.
Still, you’ve got other solid options too, like the regular buses back to Chiayi city, connections to the Chiayi HSR station, or a private transfer if you’re traveling with friends and want door-to-door convenience.
The goal on Day 3 is simple: leave the mountain without stress, not sprint out of it.
Checklist: Top things to do in Alishan
Visit Fenqihu Old Street properly (not just a quick photo)
Fenqihu Old Street (奮起湖老街) is small, but it’s not a “snap and leave” stop if you actually give it 60 to 90 minutes.
I treated it like a slow wander: browse the little food stalls, peek into the shops selling local snacks and tea products, and let the train-town atmosphere do its thing.
It’s a great first stop because it eases you into the Alishan pace before the early mornings and forest walks kick in.
Check out the Bamboo Forests of the Fenqi Trail
The Fenqi Trail (奮起步道) is the kind of walk I recommend to anyone who wants “nature” without “sweat-based regret.”
It’s short, well-kept, and you get those classic bamboo forest moments that make you slow down without realizing it. Expect a few steeper steps, but nothing that should ruin your day.
Have the iconic bento at the Fenqihu Hotel
Yes, it’s touristy, and yes, it’s still worth doing once. The Fenqihu Hotel bento experience feels like part of the town’s identity, and it’s an easy, comforting meal before you head deeper into the mountains.
I like it here because it’s simple, efficient, and satisfying, which is precisely what you want when your schedule includes early starts.
Fenqihu Fireflies tour (if in season)
If you’re in the right months, seeing fireflies around Fenqihu is pure magic in a low-effort package.
The general sweet spot is spring into early summer, with the most vigorous activity often from around April to June, though different species appear across other months as well.
Check locally with Fenqihu Hotel (they run tours for their guests) when you arrive because conditions change, and nobody wants to hike in the dark for a “maybe.”
Catch the famous sunrise and sea of clouds at Chushan
You ride up, step out into the cold, and wait with everyone else who had the same idea, but the payoff can be unreal when the sky cooperates. This is also one of the most accessible sunrise options, which is why it’s so popular.
Aim to arrive early enough to settle in before first light, because the best color often happens in that short window when the horizon starts warming up.
Also, keep your expectations in check: fog is common up here, and sometimes the sunrise is just “bright gray.”
Do the Eryanping Sunrise Trail
Eryanping Sunrise Trail (二延平步道) is a solid alternative if you want a sunrise view that feels more earned.
It requires more effort than Chushan because you’re hiking rather than taking a train, and the perspective is different, offering views that reveal layered mountains and shifting cloud patterns.
I’d choose this when I’m craving something a little more active and a little less “platform crowd.”
Ride the Alishan Forest Express inside the Forest
Even if you’re not a train person, this one is different because it’s not just transportation; it’s part of the scenery.
The ride gives you a front-row seat to the landscape and lets your legs rest for the trails that are actually worth walking. I also like how it breaks up the day, which is helpful if you’re traveling long-term and trying not to burn out.
After my friend and I had completed the Sister Ponds Trail, we took the forest express from Shenmu Station (神木車站) within the woods to the town square of the recreation area.
Pick one bigger hike if you want more adventure
If you want a challenge, choose one “big hike” and commit to it, rather than trying to squeeze everything into one day.
The classic, tougher option is the Tashan Trail (大塔山步道), which is roughly 7 to 8 km and features a steady climb that can take three to three-and-a-half hours for many hikers.
For something longer around the Fenqihu side, the Fenqihu–Mt. Dadong Trail (奮起湖大凍山步道) is about 7.1 km with around 331 m of elevation difference, and it’s the kind of walk that feels satisfying without turning into an all-day ordeal.
Sip your way through Alishan tea culture in Shizuo
Shizuo (石棹) is where Alishan’s tea landscape really shows off, with rolling rows of tea fields and trails that make you feel like you wandered into a screensaver.
The vibe here is calmer and more local than in the main recreation area, making it a great add-on if you want something scenic that isn’t centered on sunrise.
I treat it as a “slow travel” stop: walk a bit, drink tea, breathe, repeat.
Your Alishan Win, Without the Overplanning
Alishan is at its best when you stop micromanaging and stick to a simple plan: Fenqihu stops, misty forest walks, a few railway moments, and that one early sunrise that feels like Taiwan’s secret level.
The final fuss-free move is staying connected for transport checks, trail info, and last-minute pivots, so I always travel with an Airalo Taiwan eSIM.
And if Alishan is part of a bigger route, the Airalo Asia eSIM keeps the same smooth setup as you hop to your next stop.
Frequently Asked Questions about Alishan
Where is Alishan located in Taiwan?
Alishan is in Chiayi County in central-southern Taiwan, up in the mountains. In practical terms, “Alishan” can mean the wider highland region. Still, most travelers are really aiming for the Alishan National Scenic Area and especially the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, where the main trails and sunrise logistics are.
Is Alishan worth visiting?
Yes, if you’re into cool mountain air, misty forests, scenic rail rides, and a one-time early wake-up for sunrise. It’s less ideal if you hate early mornings, don’t want foggy weather roulette, or you’d rather spend limited Taiwan days in cities or on beaches.
How many days do you need for Alishan?
A day trip is possible, but it’s usually rushed because transport takes up a lot of time. 2D1N is the common sweet spot, since you can do sunrise without wrecking your sleep and still enjoy the forest calmly. 3D2N is best if you want it truly fuss-free, with buffer time for fog, stargazing, and extras like tea stops without cramming.
Do you need to book tickets and transport in advance?
Book accommodations early in peak seasons and weekends, especially if you want to stay close to the main recreation area. If you’re set on specific forest railway tickets (especially sunrise-related), try to book as soon as they open because seats can be limited. Most smaller experiences, like local tours and stargazing, can usually be arranged after you arrive depending on weather and how you’re feeling.
