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Nigel Seah has extensive experience travelling through Taiwan and shares his adventures and insider tips with us below.

 

Xiaoliuqiu (小琉球), or Lambai Island, is a tiny coral island off southern Taiwan that packs in turtles, sea caves, sunset viewpoints, and just enough adventure to feel exciting without being overwhelming.

In this guide, I will walk you through when to go and how to get around the island, and which sights and activities are actually worth your time.

I’ll end off with my personal 3-day 2-night itinerary you can copy or tweak.

I will also show you how using a Taiwan eSIM or a regional Asia eSIM keeps things simple for navigation, bookings, and messaging. At the same time, you bounce between ferries, beaches, and hostel bars.

In this article:

• When to go to Xiaoliuqiu
• How to Get to Xiaoliuqiu
• Things to Note Before You Board the Ferry
• How to Get Around Xiaoliuqiu
• Things to Do and Places to See on Xiaoliuqiu
• My 3 Day 2 Night Itinerary
• Before You Go: Stay Connected and Explore Freely

When to go to Xiaoliuqiu

Best Overall

If you want that sweet spot where weather, water, and crowds all cooperate, I recommend Xiaoliuqiu between March and May or from October into early December.

The island feels warm and tropical without full summer heat, sea conditions are friendlier, and visibility is often good for spotting turtles around Zhongao and other snorkel spots.

I was there in early December, and the island was so quiet I felt like a VIP (I was the only guest at the hostel when I arrived).

That said, December does bring slightly stronger winds.

For Quiet & Value

If you care more about peace and good deals than a buzzy scene, look at winter weekdays, especially from December to February, plus shoulder periods that skip public holidays.

Winter days on Xiaoliuqiu still hover around the low twenties Celsius, so you can swim, snorkel, and scooter around while the north is in jackets.

For Warmth & Buzz

If your ideal island break is hot sun, busy barbecue joints, and scooters lined up at every viewpoint, then late spring into summer, roughly May to September, is your window.

July and August are the peak. This is the period when school holidays hit, the sea turns bathtub warm, and dive and SUP operators are buzzing with activity.

You get long, bright days and a fun, lively atmosphere, but you also need to budget for higher prices, bookings, and the chance that a typhoon might reshuffle your plans.

How to Get to Xiaoliuqiu

The only way to get to the island is via a ferry in Donggang Township (東港鎭) in Pingtung County (屏東縣). There are several ways to reach the ferry terminal.

Getting there from Kaohsiung

From Zuoying HSR Station (左營高鐵站)

Zuoying is your main launchpad to Xiaoliuqiu.

After getting off the train, head toward a ticket booth on the second floor with “Kenting Express” and “Dapeng Bay Liuqiu Express” visible at the top of the booth. Here’s where you can get your tickets for the bus ride.

When you’re done, head to Exit 2 and follow the signs to the bus area, where the 9127-D Taiwan Tourist Shuttle runs about 50 minutes straight to Donggang’s ferry pier (東港漁港).

From anywhere else in Kaohsiung

If you’re already in Kaohsiung city (高雄市), the most convenient and straightforward option is to take a taxi or Uber to the Donggang ferry terminal.

I was staying at this cosy hostel-hotel hybrid accommodation called ho̍k house (鶴宮寓) in Sinsing District

This was the option I took as I was staying in the Sinsing District (新興區). It didn’t really make much sense to head all the way to Zuouying HSR with all the stuff I was carrying before heading to the ferry terminal.

But if you want to keep costs friendlier and have time to spare, you can head to a major stop like Jianguo Station (建國站) or Sankuaicuo Station (三塊厝車站).

There, you can take Bus 9117B or 9127 and head to Donggang. Stop at the Donggang Ferry Terminal.

Getting there from other cities in Taiwan

From a City along the Western Coast

If you’re starting in a western city like Taipei, Taichung (台中市), or Tainan (臺南市), keep it simple and build the whole route around the HSR.

You can take the HSR down to Zuoying in Kaohsiung, which turns what would be a long day on regular trains into a pretty quick hop, then follow the standard combo that most local guides recommend: the 9127-D Dapeng Bay–Liuqiu shuttle bus or a taxi from Zuoying to Donggang, and finally the 20 to 25 minute ferry to Xiaoliuqiu.

That mix of fast rail and direct bus has been the most reliable setup for my laptop-and-backpack life, especially when I am trying to time my arrival with specific ferry departures.

From a City along the Eastern Coast

Coming in from the East Coast feels more like stitching together a few legs, so always plan extra buffer time.

From places like Hualien (花蓮市) or Taitung (臺東市), take the Taiwan Railway (TRA) to Linbian Station (林邊站).

From there, you can either take a taxi to Donggang Harbor or walk a few minutes from Linbian Station to a bus stop and catch the 9117A bus towards Donggang Ferry Terminal (about 21 mins, 10 stops).

Trust me, the coral coastline and turtles make the slightly longer journey worth it.

Things to Note Before You Board the Ferry

Eat at Huaqiao Fish Market (東港華僑魚市場)

If I have time before my ferry, I always give myself an extra hour at Donggang to swing by Huaqiao Fish Market near the harbor.

It is packed with sashimi, grilled seafood, fried snacks, and bentos you can bring on board or save for later on the island.

You get a quick taste of southern Taiwan’s food scene, and it is much nicer to board a sometimes-bumpy ferry with a full stomach than to gamble on finding your first meal only after you land.

Buying Ferry Tickets, Return Times, and Avoiding Peak Crowds

Several companies share the Donggang-Xiaoliuqiu route, and they do not run on identical timetables. But it honestly doesn’t matter which company you go with.

Do check schedules beforehand, since operators have slightly different departure and return times, and add more boats on weekends and holidays.

Tickets are easy to buy at counters or through packages that bundle ferry rides with scooters.

Weather, Sea Conditions, and What Happens If Ferries Are Canceled

While the crossing is a short 20-minute ride, the water can feel lively when wind and swell pick up. This is especially so during summer typhoons or strong winter winds.

My return ride was way choppier than my ride to Xiaoliuqiu

On rough days, companies may slow sailings, merge departures, or cancel services altogether, which can leave you stuck on either shore.

I treat the timetable as a plan rather than a guarantee and always check the forecast and any notices before leaving Kaohsiung.

If ferries are at risk of cancellation, it is safer to adjust your travel day or stay in Donggang or Kaohsiung overnight than to gamble on a tight same-day connection.

Withdraw all the cash you need before heading to Xiaoliuqiu

Cash is one of those things that feels optional in the city and suddenly becomes essential on Xiaoliuqiu, especially if you use a foreign card.

The island currently has only one ATM, and it doesn’t even accept international cards. Many, if not most, businesses prefer cash over cards or apps.

So treat the ATMs around the Donggang ferry terminal as your last chance to withdraw what you need for ferries, food, transport, and a small emergency buffer.

Once you are on the island, assume you will pay in cash most, if not all, the time.

Prepayment is Almost a Must

Many accommodations will request payment via transfer before you head to the island.

You can do so at ATMs in convenience stores like 711 or FamilyMart.

That said, if your payment doesn’t go through (like mine didn’t), do keep the business informed and see if there is an alternative.

After providing proof that I had attempted to make the transfer but failed, my hostel’s owner agreed to accept cash upon my arrival.

Rules Around Turtles, Coral, and Marine Conservation

Xiaoliuqiu’s green sea turtles are the star of the show, and that is precisely why the rules around them are strict.

You are expected not to touch, chase, or corner turtles, and to leave a respectful distance when snorkeling or diving, both for animal welfare and your own safety.

Standing on coral, breaking pieces, or stomping through tidal pools is also a fast way to damage a fragile ecosystem and possibly get fined.

Pre-book your transport if you don’t have a car or bike License

Before this trip, it pays to be honest about your license situation and how comfortable you are on two wheels.

The island is small but spread out, and many beaches, caves, and tour meeting points are not easily reached on foot, especially in midday heat.

If you’re like me, who doesn't have both a car and a motorbike license, nor can I ride a bicycle, I’d strongly recommend you start the conversation early with the accommodation’s management you booked to see if they offer carpooling.

Look at the lovely exterior and spacious sleeping pods

Luckily for me, the hostel I stayed at, Travel Light Bubble Hostel (輕旅泡泡), provided such a service. This was such a lifesaver.

How to Get Around Xiaoliuqiu

Scooters and Electric Scooters

Legally, you are expected to have a proper motorcycle or scooter license for gas scooters. Shops can refuse to rent if you cannot show one.

Electric scooters are a bit more flexible, and some rental shops near Baishawei Harbor and the main village are happy to set those up for newer riders after a quick briefing on controls and local rules.

Bicycles, Walking, and Eco-Friendly Ways to Explore

Suppose you prefer to move at a slower pace.

Xiaoliuqiu is tiny enough that walking and cycling actually make sense, especially if you are staying near Baishawei and focusing on a few key beaches and viewpoints.

The island is only about 12 kilometers around, so a complete loop on a bicycle can be done in about an hour of actual riding.

Meanwhile, walking that same loop might take three to four hours, depending on how often you stop for photos, snacks, or turtle spotting breaks.

Local Carpool Service

If you do not have a valid scooter license, cannot drive, and can’t ride a bicycle (like me), I lean on local carpool services instead.

Being a passenger princess is kind of nice when you travel solo

I arranged a three-hour round-island car tour with my hostel's owner to hit many of the main caves, viewpoints, and beaches in one shot.

You usually discuss the route with your host ahead of time, then fine-tune it with the driver on the day, so you still have control over what you see while someone else handles the roads and parking.

Navigation Tips: Offline Maps, Signage, and Staying Connected

Because I work on the road, I am picky about navigation, and Xiaoliuqiu is one place where having solid data really smooths things out.

The island roads are mostly a simple loop with a few cut-throughs, but English signage can be hit-or-miss, and some smaller paths to viewpoints or caves are not apparent at first glance.

I keep Google Maps open to double-check that I am heading toward the right bay or temple, so I don't accidentally ride past it.

What helped me most was using Airalo’s Asia eSIM, because it allowed me to:

• Load Google Maps quickly to confirm routes and find specific spots the locals recommended. Show my driver or scooter rental boss exactly where I wanted to go, even if I could not pronounce the name.
• Use Google Translate on the go when my Mandarin runs out of steam mid-conversation.
• Keep one regional eSIM active across multiple countries in Asia instead of switching plans every time I cross a border.
• Stay online for messages, bookings, and last-minute plan changes while I am out exploring the island.

Things to Do and Places to See on Xiaoliuqiu

Vase Rock (花瓶石)

Vase Rock is the island’s celebrity, and it earns the hype.

The coral sea stack stands right off Baishawei Harbor, with a tuft of greenery on top and clear water filled with fish and, often, turtles around its base.

I came during the mid-afternoon when the sunlight intensity was perfect for taking pictures.

If you do get into the water here, expect rocky entry and sharp coral underfoot, so wear water shoes, follow local safety signs, and keep your distance from the turtles instead of swimming straight at them for that “perfect” photo.

Turtle Cave (海龜洞)

Turtle Cave sits on the western coastline, and it’s an easy spot to reach whether you scooter around the island or hop on a local shuttle, which usually loops through the area.

I had a good time here just watching the waves crash against limestone formations and noticing how the coral rock eroded into shapes that look like a turtle’s shell.

The cave isn’t a snorkeling spot, so don’t expect sea turtles in the water right at the entrance.

However, it’s still one of those places that helps you slow down, explore the coastal landscape up close, and really see how Xiaoliuqiu’s unique geology formed over time.

Beauty Cave (美人洞)

Beauty Cave is where you start to understand how wild Xiaoliuqiu’s geology really is, with coral cliffs, caves, and viewpoints all linked by a short but varied loop trail.

The area is ticketed, and said ticket grants you access to other caves on the island for NTD 120. Do put on shoes because some sections involve steps, ducking under low rock ceilings, and narrow paths along the cliff.

In between the romantic legends and photo spots, I always make time to stop at the sea viewpoints and look for fishing nets and tidal pools below, which gives you a feel for how closely island life is tied to the water.

Black Devil Cave (烏鬼洞)

Black Devil Cave has a heavier story behind it, with a history linked to a 17th-century massacre, and you can feel that weight as you follow the narrow paths through twisted coral rock and banyan roots.

Some sections are dark, low, and a little claustrophobic, so I keep my hands free, watch my head, and stay mindful that this is both a scenic spot and a place with real historical trauma, not just another selfie backdrop.

At the end of the path, though, you’ll get an absolutely gorgeous view of the sea from a viewing platform.

Shanfu Ecological Walk (杉福生態廊道)

Shanfu Ecological Walk is a short coastal trail with a surprisingly layered personality. It used to be part of a military facility, and now it doubles as an eco corridor with sea views.

The path runs for a few hundred meters near Shanfu Fishing Harbor, taking you past old bunkers, lookout platforms, and stretches of eroded coral shoreline where you can watch waves, birds, and, if you are lucky, turtles in the distance.

I came around late afternoon and used the viewing platform as a slow-down point in the day, just soaking in the mix of history, sea breeze, and sunset light.

Wild Boar Trench Trail (山豬溝生態步道)

Wild Boar Trench Trail feels like stepping into a secret forest dropped into the middle of a coral island, with raised reef walls, shaded boardwalks, and banyan trees throwing roots in every direction.

The loop is short and relatively easy. It’s great to cool down in the middle of the day because the canopy blocks much of the direct sun, and the air feels noticeably calmer than out on the ring road.

Houshi Shore (厚石海岸)

Houshi Shore stretches along the southeastern side of the island and shows off Xiaoliuqiu’s coral DNA in full view, with wave-carved terraces, tide pools, and scattered rock formations all along the coast.

I treated it like a slow drive-and-walk combo, pulling over at viewpoints and small parking areas rather than trying to “do” it in one stop.

Biyun Temple (碧雲寺)

Biyun Temple sits near the center of the island and serves as both a religious center for locals and a quiet cultural stop for visitors.

It’s dedicated mainly to Guanyin, and you will see offerings, incense, and festival decorations that hint at its importance in village life, especially during major temple events.

My 3 Day 2 Night Itinerary

Day 1, Night 1 - Kaohsiung to Xiaoliuqiu and Island Tour

I based myself in Kaohsiung’s Sinsing District. So instead of doing the MRT plus bus shuffle, I took an Uber straight to Donggang to catch the 11:30 a.m. ferry and skipped lunch at Huaqiao Fish Market to make sure I made it on board.

The ride over to Xiaoliuqiu only took about 20 to 30 minutes, and the hostel’s owner met me at the pier, brought me back to check in and drop my bags, and waited while I sketched out a rough plan for the day.

I had already pre-booked a carpool service that included pickup and drop-off at the ferry, plus a three-hour round-island tour, which made it easy to focus solely on the sights.

We looped through the island’s greatest hits in one go:

• Vase Rock
• Beauty Cave
• Turtle Rock
• Shanfu Ecological Walk
• Wild Boar Trench Trail
• Guanyin Rock
• Houshi Shore
• Biyun Temple

After that, we headed back to the hostel, where I wrapped up the day with dinner and drinks at the hostel bar.

Day 2, Night 2 - Standup Paddle Boarding and Scuba Diving

I packed most of the “bucket list” activities into my second day and treated it as my big adventure day.

Before sunrise, I joined a stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) session, which turned out to be much tougher than it looked in photos. Staying upright while the board moved under me took serious core strength and focus. 

Right after that, I swapped the paddle for a tank and went out for a dive to look for turtles, and we ended up spotting three green sea turtles cruising calmly through the water, which was the kind of moment Xiaoliuqiu is famous for.

After the morning rush, I headed back to the hostel for a shower, a complimentary breakfast, and a few hours of rest and laptop time, then went back out around 3 p.m. for a sunset SUP session.

The beach where we did the sunset activity had much stronger waves, so I mostly stayed seated and enjoyed the ride while still catching a couple of turtle sightings.

The day ended the way a good island day should, with a solid local meal at Ah Li’s Chicken Rice (阿莉雞肉飯), a simple but satisfying spot that matched the laid-back pace of the island.

Day 3

My last morning on Xiaoliuqiu was slower, starting with breakfast at the hostel and a final check to make sure I had not left chargers under the bed.

The hostel arranged a pickup to Dafu Port (大福漁港), one of the principal ferry harbors, and from there I took the short boat ride back across the channel to Donggang.

Instead of heading straight out, I walked back to Huaqiao Fish Market for a sashimi lunch. It felt like a neat full-circle moment after rushing past it on day one, and it is precisely the kind of fresh seafood stop many island guides recommend.

With the ferry behind me, a full stomach, and my photos backed up, it was easy to transition from island mode back into travel mode and move on to the next leg of the trip.

Before You Go: Stay Connected and Explore Freely

Xiaoliuqiu rewards slow travel, sea-turtle encounters, and those little detours you only find when you’re exploring without rushing.

From tide-dependent caves to sunset cliff views and seafood shacks tucked between alleys, the island feels a lot more memorable when you’re able to navigate maps, check tide charts, and book activities on the fly.

If you want that same freedom, grab a reliable Taiwan or Asia eSIM from Airalo before you arrive.

With a steady connection, you’re not just visiting Xiaoliuqiu; you’ll experience it like a local traveler who knows exactly where to go next.