Nigel Seah is a guest blogger for Airalo and an avid traveler with extensive experience across Asia and South America, sharing his adventures and insider tips below.
I ended up in Yilan almost by accident.
I had left Bangkok for Taipei to attend Taipei Pride but came to discover that accommodation prices were off the charts even two weeks before the event.
So I decided to head to the northeastern county to save some money and explore Taiwan’s countryside, something I never got to do growing up. And boy, was I glad I made that call.
View of Toucheng Township from a hill
Yilan feels like Taiwan is turning the volume down.
What pulled me in and kept me longer was how naturally Yilan blends adventure with downtime. One day you’re hiking misty trails or watching surfers chase waves, the next you’re soaking in hot springs or eating your way through night markets.
Nothing feels rushed, nothing feels staged.
It’s the kind of place where staying connected still matters for maps, buses, and spontaneous detours, which is why having a reliable Taiwan eSIM or Asia eSIM made exploring feel easy instead of stressful.
This guide is built from wandering, getting a little lost, and learning where Yilan really shines, so you can experience it with the same sense of freedom and calm that made me fall for it.
Best Times to Go to Yilan
March to May (Spring)
Spring and fall are the favorite seasons for many visitors to be in Yilan.
In spring, temperatures stay comfy, the humidity eases up a bit, and the whole region looks like it just woke up and chose “extra.” Think fresh greens everywhere, and waterfalls running at full power.
June to August (Summer)
Summer leans into Yilan’s beachy side.
This is when Wai’ao Beach surfing, lazy coastal days, and boat trips out to Guishandao make total sense. Just expect the occasional afternoon shower that shows up uninvited, like it owns the place.
September to November (Fall)
This was when I visited, and if you surf, October is your sweet spot.
Surfer vibes were immaculate.
As the island shifts into winter, the winds start to kick in, swells get more consistent, and the coastline delivers those clean, rideable waves you came for.
Fall is calmer, clearer, and ideal for hiking or cycling along the coast without breaking a sweat. You’ll still get that lively Yilan energy, but it’s more “buzzing in a good way” than “why is everyone here at the same time?”
December to February (Winter)
Winter flips the script. Cooler air, misty mountains, and steaming hot springs make Jiaoxi and the surrounding forests cozy escapes.
Rain is part of life here year-round, and typhoon season usually falls between late summer and early fall, so keep plans flexible. That mindset fits Yilan perfectly.
Things to Bring to Yilan
Taiwan and Asia eSIMs
Nature-heavy regions like Yilan are the kinds of places where having reliable connectivity quietly saves your day over and over.
But they don’t always cater to tourists with clear directions or English signage, and that’s part of the charm.
Once you leave the main towns, directions get vague, and Google Maps stops being “nice to have” and becomes your lifeline for train times, bus routes, trailheads, and finding food when your plans inevitably drift.
Airalo has Taiwan-only and Asia-wide eSIM, so you can stay connected without the “where’s the nearest SIM shop?” panic while in rural Yilan. Here’s why eSIMs are a total game-changer for you:
- Instant setup: No store stops, no SIM swapping.
- Stay connected in crowded areas: Because Pride crowds are amazing… and also hard on networks.
- More secure than public Wi-Fi: Skip the sketchy café network roulette.
- Fast, reliable internet across Taiwan and Asia: Navigation, messages, and uploads that don’t stall.
- Budget-friendly with clear pricing: No surprise fees, no weird fine print energy.
- Dual-SIM support: Keep your original number while using data on your eSIM.
- Perfect for multi-country trips: Great if you’re turning Pride into a bigger Asia tour.
And if you want to go all-in on sharing, the Taiwan Xie Xie eSIM includes 10 days of unlimited data for about 3.50/day, so you can post, stream, and message your way through your trip without missing a moment.
Appropriate Outdoor Clothes
I lived in quick-dry clothes and never regretted it, especially after surprise showers or misty trails. Anything that dried fast made life easier, whether I was hiking, biking, or just moving between towns.
These Decathlon boots were among the best things I bought during the trip.
Comfortable shoes or hiking boots are non-negotiable here. Waterfalls, uneven coastal paths, forest trails, and hot spring areas all demand something sturdy.
Light layers also came in handy more often than expected. Yilan is famous for outdoor exploration, from surfing to hiking, so dressing for movement beats dressing for photos every time.
Sunscreen
Long days near the ocean, boat trips, and wide-open coastal roads mean you’re exposed more than you realize, even when clouds roll in.
I applied sunscreen every morning without thinking twice, especially on days spent near Wai’ao Beach or exploring open landscapes with zero shade.
If you’re heading to the beach or out to Guishandao, reef-safe sunscreen is the way to go. The water here is clear, inviting, and worth protecting.
Best Things to Do in Yilan County
Toucheng Township (頭城鎮)
Go Surfing at Wai’ao Beach (外澳海灘)
Wai’ao Beach is where Yilan’s easygoing coastal energy really comes alive.
I arrived planning to stay an hour, grab a coffee, and move on. Instead, I watched the waves roll in, saw beginners laughing their way through wipeouts, and realized there was no reason to rush anywhere else.
The beach is well known locally for its forgiving waves, which make it one of the best beginner surf spots in northeast Taiwan.
This was the surf school I went to for a one-day class!
Surf schools operate right on the sand, instructors are patient, and nobody’s trying to show off. Even if you never rent a board, the cafes lining the shore make this a perfect place to sit, recharge, and stare at the ocean.
On clear days, Guishandao quietly anchors the horizon, hinting at the adventures ahead.
Oh, and fun fact! Wai'ao Beach in Taiwan has black sand because it's composed of dark, heavy minerals like titanomagnetite, eroded from volcanic rocks.
Take a Boat Ride to Guishandao (Turtle Island, 龜山島)
Boat trips to Guishandao usually depart from Wushi Harbor (烏石港), and they feel more like a small expedition than a sightseeing cruise.
Probably not the best angle to see where it got its name, but isn’t it beautiful?
Access is seasonal, which keeps the island from feeling overrun. As the boat circles the island, sheer cliffs rise out of the sea, and steam vents puff from volcanic rock, making the landscape feel alive rather than polished.
Depending on conditions, you might pass through the famous Milk Sea (牛奶海), where underwater sulfur vents turn the water a cloudy blue-white.
The combination of raw geology and open ocean creates a sense of scale that’s hard to find elsewhere in Yilan.
It’s not just about landing on the island. The journey itself is the experience.
Go Dolphin Watching
Dolphin watching in Toucheng is refreshingly low-key.
There were at least over a 100 of them around the boat!
Boats head into open water with minimal noise, and everyone scans the surface quietly, waiting. There’s no guarantee of sightings, so do your research on the best time to see them.
When dolphins appear, usually spinner dolphins or bottlenose dolphins, it happens suddenly and without drama. Seeing them move freely alongside the boat felt intimate rather than staged.
Even brief sightings leave a lasting impression, helped by the vast horizon and the sense of being far from anything busy.
It’s one of those experiences where patience is rewarded in its own time.
Check out the Lanyang Museum (蘭陽博物館)
If Yilan had a signature building, this would be it. Lanyang Museum looks like a chunk of coastal rock rising out of the wetlands, and the architecture is intentionally inspired by Yilan’s northeast coast landscape.
Even if you’re “not really a museum person,” it’s worth visiting for the visuals alone, especially when the water reflects the building like a mirror.
Inside, the permanent exhibits are set up like a journey through Yilan’s world, usually organized around mountain, plain, and sea themes, plus a timeline-style section that connects the county’s nature, culture, and everyday life.
Ticket prices are typically NT$100 for general admission, with discounted tickets often around NT$50 for eligible visitors (like students and children). If there’s a special exhibition running, it may have a separate add-on ticket, so it’s smart to check what’s on before you go.
Jiaoxi Township
Hike St. Marian’s Trail (聖母登山步道) to see Matcha Mountain ( 抹茶山)
St. Marian’s Trail to Matcha Mountain is one of Yilan’s signature hikes, and it earns the hype the honest way: it makes you work for the view.
I was smiling through the pain at this point.
The start feels friendly, with shaded forest and a well-kept path, but the climb steadily ramps up as humidity and elevation kick in, with plenty of stair-heavy sections that will have your calves negotiating terms.
The main trail segment is short on paper, but there’s often a longer approach before the steeper hiking begins, so most people budget a few hours at minimum, and closer to a half day if you include breaks, photos, and a slower pace.
There’s also real history here: it’s known as a Catholic pilgrimage route, built with community effort and a worship platform near the top, so it feels like more than just a “pretty hike.”
Near the summit, the forest opens into rolling green hills that look like a giant bowl of matcha, and the clouds move fast, hiding the view, then revealing it again like the mountain’s playing peekaboo.
Start early, bring extra water, and pack a light rain layer, because Yilan weather loves a plot twist.
Visit Jiaoxi Hot Spring Park (礁溪溫泉公園)
Between activities, Jiaoxi Hot Spring Park offers an easy reset.
Free foot soaks line the paths, and people drift in and out without planning to stay long. Shoes come off, conversations pause, and tired legs finally relax.
I stopped here more than once without meaning to.
It’s casual, soothing, and deeply woven into the town’s rhythm.
Very Jiaoxi, and very easy to appreciate.
Yilan City
Explore Yilan Distillery Chia Chi Lan Wine Museum (宜蘭酒廠甲子蘭酒文物館)
Yilan City moves at a gentler pace, and the distillery museum fits right in.
Inside, exhibits trace the region’s history of alcohol production, shaped by clean water and climate. The explanations are clear and approachable, even if you know nothing about brewing or distilling.
Tastings let you sample local specialties, but the real value is understanding how closely flavor here is tied to place.
It adds context to the drinks you’ll see across Yilan, making the city feel more grounded in its traditions.
Visit Jimmy Park (幾米公園)
Jimmy Park feels like stepping into a shared storybook.
Oversized illustrations inspired by Jimmy Liao’s work spill into the open space, transforming an ordinary park into something quietly magical. People wander slowly, taking photos, sitting on benches, and letting the mood sink in.
It’s playful without being loud, and calming without trying too hard. I found myself lingering longer than expected, which seems to happen to many people here.
Walk Along Dongmen Night Market (東門夜市)
Dongmen Night Market comes alive after dark with a more local feel than flashier markets elsewhere.
Stalls cluster tightly, offering familiar Taiwanese comfort foods cooked fast and served hot. I followed my instincts, stopping where lines formed and smells lingered.
It’s affordable, unfussy, and perfect for grazing rather than committing to a full meal. The atmosphere feels everyday rather than touristic, which makes it easy to enjoy without overthinking.
Zhuangwei Township
Relax at Zhuangwei Sand Dunes Park (壯圍沙丘生態園區)
Zhuangwei Sand Dunes Park feels intentionally designed for calm. Modern architecture blends into the landscape, guiding visitors through dunes without overpowering them.
Elevated walkways offer expansive views of the coast while protecting the fragile environment.
I came in the late afternoon, when the light softened, and the wind picked up. Watching shadows stretch across the sand as the sun lowered felt meditative.
It’s a place that encourages stillness without asking for it.
Bike Along the Coastline
Cycling here is uncomplicated and deeply satisfying. The coastal paths are flat, clearly marked, and stretch alongside the sea with minimal traffic. I rented a bike without a destination and let the scenery decide how far I went.
The ocean stays in view, the air stays fresh, and time loses its edge. It’s a simple movement paired with good scenery, which often ends up being the best kind.
Luodong Township
Shop and Eat at Luodong Night Market (羅東夜市)
Luodong Night Market is loud, busy, and unapologetically energetic.
I arrived hungry and immediately felt swept into the flow of people moving from stall to stall. Scallion pancakes, grilled meats, and Yilan specialties appear everywhere, and lines move quickly despite the crowds.
Peak hours get intense, but the energy stays friendly.
It’s the kind of place where eating standing up feels natural, and trying “just one more thing” happens repeatedly.
Unwind at Luodong Forestry Culture Park (羅東林業文化園區)
After the night market, the forestry park felt like a deep exhale. Old wooden buildings reflect Yilan’s logging history, set beside calm ponds and wide walking paths. Information is present but never overwhelming.
I walked slowly, stopped when I felt like it, and let the noise of the day fade. It’s a grounding space that perfectly balances Luodong’s liveliness.
Su’ao Township
Swim in Su’ao Cold Springs (蘇澳冷泉)
Cold springs sound strange until you experience them.
Su’ao’s naturally carbonated cold springs deliver an instant shock that wakes up every nerve, especially on a hot day. I went in the summer, which felt incredible rather than uncomfortable.
This isn’t about lingering relaxation. It’s about refreshment, the kind that resets your body in minutes.
Timing matters here, and warm afternoons are ideal.
Visit Nanfang’ao Fishing Harbor (南方澳漁港)
Nanfang’ao is active and unfiltered.
Fishing boats arrive, seafood is handled openly, and the harbor hums with daily routines. I wandered aimlessly, watching workers prep fish and locals choose their meals.
Small eateries serve seafood that hasn’t traveled far, and the flavors reflect that.
Standing by the water, eating simply prepared fish, felt like experiencing the town exactly as it is.
Datong Township
Visit Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area (太平山國家森林遊樂區)
Taipingshan feels cooler, quieter, and more remote than most of Yilan.
Forest trains glide through misty scenery, and trails wind past towering trees that shift character with the seasons.
I spent hours walking slowly, stopping often because the views kept changing.
On the right day, clouds settle below viewpoints, turning the landscape into something surreal. It’s one of the clearest examples of Yilan’s natural diversity.
Soak in Bong Bong Hot Springs (鳩之澤溫泉)
Bong Bong Hot Springs strip away everything unnecessary: no luxury finishes, no distractions, just mineral water, forest air, and silence. The setting deep in the mountains makes the experience feel earned.
After a long day exploring Taipingshan, soaking here felt grounding in a way that onsen rarely manage.
You come for warmth, but you definitely stay for the stillness.
Nan’ao Township
Explore Nan’ao Beach (南澳海灘)
Nan’ao Beach was one of the quietest stretches of coastline I found in Yilan.
Clear water meets dramatic cliffs, and crowds thin out quickly compared to more popular beaches.
I spent a lot of time swimming, walking, and sitting without checking the time.
It’s the kind of place that invites you to slow down naturally. Nothing pushes for attention, and that’s precisely the appeal.
Discover Traditional Indigenous Culture
Nan’ao is home to Atayal communities, and signs of indigenous culture appear naturally rather than as performances. I noticed woven patterns, small craft stalls, and everyday details that spoke to long-standing traditions.
Taking time to observe rather than rush added depth to the visit. It’s a reminder that Yilan’s beauty isn’t only in its landscapes, but also in the people and stories rooted there.
Where to Stay in Yilan?
Blue Sea Sunny Sky B&B (宜兰蓝海天晴民宿)
Staying in a Yilan minsu (民宿) completely changed the vibe of the trip in the best way.
These are usually family-run homestays, and you can feel it. Not in a forced “welcome, valued guest” kind of way, but in the quiet, genuine way where the hosts actually care whether you found dinner, caught the right bus, or got a decent surf session in.
I stayed at Blue Sea Sunny Sky B&B in Toucheng Township, which had an ocean-and-marine-life theme running throughout the space. Think coastal wallpaper, little sea-inspired details, and a living area that felt curated rather than “furnished.” 
Just look at that view!
My room was simple, clean, and genuinely cozy, with the same ocean touches that made it feel like someone designed it for humans, not just bookings.
And then there was the view: I had direct balcony access to the Lanyang Museum, and it was the kind of scene that makes you suddenly become a morning person against your will.
Sunrise would roll in over the water, and the light would hit the museum’s surface like a slow, cinematic reveal.
Here’s a quick rundown of why I loved it so much:
- Close to Wai’ao Beach (great for those in Yilan to surf, like me)
- Complimentary breakfast, free-flow coffee, ice popsicles, and red tea
- Super helpful owner who helped coordinate tours, surfing lessons, and provided helpful advice
- And yes, the view deserves another mention
Some places you stay. This one made Yilan feel like home.
Take a Break from the Hustle and Bustle of Taipei and Head to Yilan
Yilan County ended up being one of those places I didn’t just visit, but felt.
Between surfing at Wai’ao and hiking St. Marian’s trail, everything here flowed naturally. It’s close to Taipei, yet worlds apart in pace.
Exploring multiple townships showed me how diverse Yilan really is, and staying connected made all the difference.
For travel days, trail navigation, ferry updates, and last-minute food hunts, Airalo stood out as the better eSIM for Taiwan. It kept me online without hassle, which meant I could focus on what mattered.
Wandering freely, staying flexible, and actually enjoying every corner of Yilan instead of worrying about logistics.
FAQs About Visiting Yilan
What Are the Best Yilan Attractions for First-Time Visitors?
If it’s your first time, I’d start with Jiaoxi for hot springs, Wai’ao Beach for the coast, and either Luodong or Yilan City for night markets. That mix shows off Yilan’s personality without needing to travel far.
What Are the Best Things to Do in Yilan if It Rains?
Rain happens here, so I leaned into it. Hot springs, museums, distilleries, cafes, and night markets all work perfectly in wet weather. Even forest walks feel atmospheric instead of inconvenient.
How Many Days Do You Need in Yilan County?
Two to three days felt right for me. One day gives you a taste, but a couple of nights let you explore multiple townships without rushing. Longer stays make sense if hiking and hot springs are high priorities.
Is Yilan Worth Visiting Compared to Other Parts of Taiwan?
For me, absolutely. Yilan offers nature, food, and relaxation without long travel times or heavy crowds. It’s not flashy, but it’s deeply satisfying, especially if you value scenery and slower travel.
Can You Do Yilan as a Day Trip From Taipei?
Yes, and many people do. I’d just recommend choosing one main focus and saving the rest for another visit. Yilan rewards anyone willing to linger.
